The development of modern cosmetic products is increasingly focused not only on active ingredients but also on how those ingredients are delivered to the skin. For this reason, delivery systems have become an important area of innovation in cosmetic formulation.
One technology that is becoming an increasingly visible trend in the cosmetics industry is the use of microneedles known as spicules.
What are spicules?
Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures mainly composed of silica (SiO₂), naturally occurring in the skeletons of marine or freshwater sponges. In cosmetic formulations they are used as fine mineral microstructures dispersed in the product base.
From a technological perspective, spicules are considered mechanical penetration enhancers. Unlike many conventional delivery systems – such as liposomes, nanoemulsions or encapsulated actives – their function relies primarily on mechanical interaction with the stratum corneum.
How do microneedles work in cosmetics?
The main barrier limiting the penetration of active ingredients is the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. Its lipid structure significantly restricts the penetration of many compounds, particularly larger molecules such as peptides and other bioactive ingredients.
During application, spicules may create micro-disruptions in the stratum corneum, increasing local skin permeability. As a result, active ingredients can penetrate more effectively into the epidermis.
This mechanism is partly inspired by microneedling treatments, although in cosmetic formulations the effect is significantly milder and controlled.
Micro-stimulation of the skin
In addition to supporting ingredient penetration, microneedles may also induce mild micro-stimulation of the skin. In response, the skin may activate natural regenerative processes, including:
- fibroblast activation
- processes associated with collagen synthesis
- acceleration of skin renewal.
For this reason, spicule technology is particularly interesting for regenerating, anti-aging and skin-renewal cosmetic formulations.
Spicules in cosmetic formulation
From a formulation perspective, the use of microneedles requires careful product design. Spicules must be evenly dispersed in the formulation base while maintaining product stability and safety.
They are most commonly used in serums, creams and treatment concentrates. The formulation must also be designed to support the performance of active ingredients such as peptides, vitamins and other bioactive compounds.
Technological challenges in cosmetic production
Developing cosmetic products containing spicules requires careful technological control. One key factor is particle size and concentration control within the formulation.
Too high a concentration may affect product comfort, while too low a concentration may reduce the effectiveness of the technology. Therefore, formulation development typically includes application testing and stability studies.
Compatibility with other ingredients and proper process design during cosmetic manufacturing are also essential.
Cosmetic production using advanced technologies
Implementing innovative technologies such as microneedles requires expertise in cosmetic formulation and cosmetic manufacturing. Proper formulation design, raw material selection and production process control are crucial for ensuring product safety and effectiveness.
MG Evolution specializes in cosmetic formulation development and contract manufacturing of cosmetics, from product concept and laboratory development to full-scale production.
If you are planning to develop a cosmetic product using advanced delivery technologies such as spicules, contact our team.
